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While at Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs turned cheap and synthetic market bags into woven leather totes , a similar—and equally clever—concept to what Gvasalia is doing right now. This philosophy is exactly what the Georgian-born designer has become known for. Under his Vetements label , he's sold things like $300 DHL tees, $1,200 nylon windbreakers (made in collaboration with Reebok), and $800 Champion hoodies—both arguably better targets for criticism than the work he's doing at Balenciaga—all of which sell out in hours. Demna's proposition is that the price of an item, whether a lot or a little, has almost nothing to do with the extremely subjective idea of "good taste," and this blue tote is a prime example. It calls to mind the shape and style of Ikea's beloved bag but, unlike a Vetements x Champion hoodie, sees an enormous leap upward in quality in that it's crafted entirely of leather and handmade in Italy. No, it doesn't look like the kind of thing a rich Upper East Side housewife would carry to brunch, but that doesn't mean it's not a true luxury item, either. Gvasalia, more than perhaps any other designer today, is an artist who loves nothing more than to challenge society's accepted ideas of luxury. He challenges it through silhouette (sometimes oversize, sometimes cropped, hardly ever in the middle), through collaborations, and through his unconventional sources of inspiration (for instance. his Fall-Winter 2017 menswear collection for Balenciaga was inspired by the seemingly uninspiring wardrobes of Wall Street bankers). In this so-called "Ikea bag," his cheap-item-made-expensive concept might not be new, but neither is feigning outrage over the high price of a luxury item. Even Ikea itself is down with the Balenciaga bag.
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NEEDLE WORK: Tod’s and tattoos are rarely uttered in the same breath, but all that changed this week when Diego Della Valle moved the British needle artist Saira Hunjan onto the top floor of his Bond Street store. Hunjan has been tattooing the brand’s large Double T bags, riffing on the brand’s signature lion and adding serpents, roses and hearts to create mythical creatures that wind their way across the front and back of the bags. “Every bag has a different narrative,” said Hunjan, who spends about 22 hours tattooing each one. Inking treated leather is not easy, and few brands have attempted it. “She’s working with the least-treated, most precious leather we have, because that works best,” said Della Valle, pointing to the caramel-colored hide on the workshop table. The more a hide is treated, the more absorbent it becomes, which makes them tricky and messy to ink. Hunjan, who lives and works between London and South Wales, traces her designs on the leather a number of times, and repeatedly cleans it as she works, so that it doesn’t stain. The generously-inked Hunjan said some parts of the process are similar to human tattooing. “I even use Vaseline to lubricate the skin to help the needle penetrate a bit more,” said the tattooist, who also appears in a short film — starring Suki Waterhouse — created to mark the collaboration. On Friday at the store, Hunjan was working alongside Fabrizio Vita, a craftsman from the Tod’s factory near Ancona, Italy, who was patiently sealing the seams of bags with a small paint brush.
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